Model Casting for Fashion Photography: Tips from 20 Years Experience

If you want strong campaign imagery, “Model Casting for Fashion Photography: Tips from 20 Years Experience” will change how you think about building a shoot. I’m Kristine Di Grigoli Paige, and in two decades behind the lens—working in Philadelphia, London, NYC, and everywhere in between—I’ve learned that the right casting sets the stage for everything that follows. Whether you’re an emerging designer, established brand, or creative director, these are the strategies I use to consistently deliver compelling, high-converting shoots for catalogs, lookbooks, and editorials.

1. Define Your Brand Message Before You Cast

Before a single casting call goes out, I ask every client: “What story does your brand want to tell?” Are you bold and trend-driven, timeless and classic, or somewhere in between? The model’s look, energy, and vibe should all reflect this narrative. If you skip this step, even the most beautiful faces won’t align with your vision.

2. Build Relationships with Trusted Model Agencies

Over the years, I’ve learned the value of relationships with reputable agencies—here in Philadelphia (Phillyfaces.com is a staple for lifestyle) and far afield in London and NYC. Having a reliable point of contact means access to new faces, reliable pros, and emergency replacements if a model cancels. I never shortcut the vetting process—working with true agencies protects everyone’s interests.

3. Prioritize Professionalism and Reliability

Looks are important, but professionalism is everything. Through countless castings, I’ve seen that punctuality, willingness to collaborate, and a positive attitude can transform a shoot. I always review a model’s recent work, ask agents about their reliability, and—where possible—bring back proven models for return clients.

4. Embrace Diversity and Authenticity

Brands see the return on inclusivity. Real campaigns reflect the true range of your customer base. I look for age, body type, gender, and cultural diversity during casting, and encourage clients to think about the faces they want seen in their campaigns. Sometimes, the best “model” is someone with incredible personality, movement, or niche appeal—even if they’re not agency-signed.

5. Use Polaroids and Test Shoots, Not Just Portfolios

Portfolios are polished; polaroids and candid phone snaps show how someone really looks. For big projects, I request digitals or invite models for a brief test—especially if the brand has very specific styling needs (fit, hair, skill with movement). These casual shots are invaluable for understanding bone structure, skin clarity, and how the model handles camera direction.

6. Collaborative Casting—Involve Your Creative Team

Stylists, art directors, and even hair/MUA are part of the casting conversation. In my process, we do more than just swap model comp cards—we meet, moodboard, and talk through creative possibilities. Sometimes, bringing the stylist into pre-casting sessions reveals a better fit you wouldn’t see on paper. Casting is a team game.

7. Communicate Clearly and Set Expectations

Once models are confirmed, I send detailed call sheets and moodboards: where, when, what to bring, and a run-of-show. I outline hair and makeup needs, clothing sizes, and any non-negotiable requirements (for example: must be comfortable with pets, as Nina, my in-studio dog, makes frequent appearances!). Communication up front avoids confusion and builds trust.

8. Direct with Respect—On Set and During Casting

This tip is close to my heart after 20 years: treat every model as a creative collaborator, not a prop. My direction is specific, positive, and always leaves space for improvisation. The magic usually happens when a model feels seen and heard—she’ll take risks and own each look, and it shows in the final images.

9. Casting for Lookbooks vs. Catalogs vs. Editorials

• Catalogue: Consistency is key. I look for reliable “fit” models who photograph well in similar poses/lighting across many pieces.

• Lookbook: Energy and movement are just as important as looks. I want charisma, eye contact, and someone who can embody the brand story in lifestyle settings—especially on location in Philly, London, or wherever we’re shooting.

• Editorial: Big attitude, avant-garde beauty, or that ineffable “it factor.” Editorial casting lets me push further, but I always keep the client’s vision in central focus.

10. Be Prepared for Surprises

Last-minute cancellations and nerves are real. I always keep a B-list of alternate options, work closely with agents on troubleshooting, and try to stay flexible—sometimes the best shoots happen with a last-minute swap, or with street-cast talent that brings something totally unexpected to set.

Final Thoughts From the Studio

Model casting for fashion photography is both science and art. After 20 years, I can say with confidence that the more you plan, communicate, and invite the right energy onto your set, the better your results will be. Whether you’re launching a clothing line, shooting a new lookbook, or updating your portfolio, getting casting right is an investment that always pays off.

If you’re ready to put these model casting tips to use, let’s work together—or reach out for a consult! I’m always happy to bring fresh faces and creative energy to my shoots in Philadelphia, London, and beyond.